Goya – Royal Chapel of St. Anthony of La Florida – Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida

A must see chapel to visit in Madrid. What I love the most is all the angels depicted on the ceiling are women.

After his death aged 82 on April 16th 1828 (having failed to recover from falling down the stairs at his Cours de l’Intendance residence), Goya was buried in a tomb in the Chartreuse cemetery in central Bordeaux alongside his compatriot Martin Goicocchea, a former mayor of Madrid and father-in-law to Goya’s son Javier. In 1899, both bodies were exhumed to be transferred back to Spain. Neither body could be formally identified. For a start, Goya’s head had disappeared! It is believed that it was stolen by one of Goya’s former models, the Marques de San Adrian, who may have sought to understand the workings of Goya’s brain by doing some “hands-on” research. Goya’s head was never to be found. The two bodies were transported in a single coffin and buried with others first in Saragosse then transferred to a joint mausoleum at the Royal Chapel of Saint Anthony of La Florida in Madrid.

The Royal Chapel of St. Anthony of La Florida (Spanish: Real Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida) is a Neoclassical chapel in central Madrid. The chapel is best known for its ceiling and dome frescoes by Goya. It is also his burial place. After his death aged 82 on April 16th 1828 (having failed to recover from falling down the stairs at his Cours de l’Intendance residence), Goya was buried in a tomb in the Chartreuse cemetery in central Bordeaux alongside his compatriot Martin Goicocchea, a former mayor of Madrid and father-in-law to Goya’s son Javier. In 1899, both bodies were exhumed to be transferred back to Spain. Neither body could be formally identified. For a start, Goya’s head had disappeared! It is believed that it was stolen by one of Goya’s former models, the Marques de San Adrian, who may have sought to understand the workings of Goya’s brain by doing some “hands-on” research. Goya’s head was never to be found. The two bodies were transported in a single coffin and buried with others first in Saragoza then transferred to a joint mausoleum at the Royal Chapel of Saint Anthony of La Florida in Madrid

Goya’s fresco depicting the legend of Saint Anthony reviving a dead man

The chapel was built in the general location of two prior chapels built in the 1730s, which were on the land of a farm called La Florida. The present structure was built by Felipe Fontana from 1792 to 1798 on the orders of King Carlos IV, who also commissioned the frescoes by Goya and his assistant Asensio Juliá.The structure was declared a national monument in 1905. In 1919 Goya’s remains were transferred here from Bordeaux, where he had died in 1828. In 1928 an identical chapel was built alongside the original, in order to allow the original to be converted into a museum.On every June 13, the chapel becomes the site of a lively pilgrimage in which young unwed women come to pray to Saint Anthony and to ask for a partner. The frescoes by Goya were completed over a six-month period in 1798. The frescoes portray miracles by Saint Anthony of Padua. On the main cupola of the chapel Goya depicted Saint Anthony raising a dead man; instead of portraying the scene as occurring in thirteenth-century Lisbon, Goya relocated the miracle to contemporary Madrid.

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Gin & Tonic: Spain’s Obsession, Despite the Recession

Gin and Tonic

SRapallo, Strawberry G&T II, watercolor, 2017
SRapallo, Strawberry G&T II, watercolor, 2017

You probably always thought Gin and Tonic was just another kind of drink, right? Just put gin, tonic and some lime, right? Yeah, me too, but not in Spain. You even may think that is definitely not the most exciting cocktail you ever tried, but once again, not in Spain. In Spain the casual G&T is practically an art form, as bartenders pays attention to which gins they use with which tonics, and add thoughtful garnishes and thick ice cubes, serving the drink in goblets. They have entire booklets for G&T on bars, you can even get lost trying to choose one recipe over the other. Literally every bar you go into, from a cocktail bar to a crappy little sports bar, had 25 to 30 gins.

To write this post I made a little research over the subject and found out they have 65 types of gins, but only 5 types of tonics. There are not a ton of different tonics on the market in Spain. They have a dozen or so different tonics and a lot of companies make them. But most bars make their own tonic syrup and carbonated it. They are also very picky about the ice too. Just not any type of ice… no, most fancy bars just use Kold-Draft. Because the idea is that you want larger, denser ice with less air trapped in there, so it melts slower. It keeps the drink colder longer and there’s less dilution, which is ideal for something you’ll be sipping on.

They also have special Gin Clubs where you can choose from more than 40 gin brands paired up with their own trimmings. You can take it into infinity and beyond. It is refreshing, not overly sweet, and easy to drink. But in my case, just one drink for the night, the second G&T normally gives me a brutal headache the day after. But like the Spanish after discovering that G&T is much more than a normal and even boring drink served in plastic cups, it’s safe to say I had never tasted the true potential of this glorious convergence of grain and bubbles. Sounds even poetic.

The recipes are endless, from juniper berries, verbena, edible flower, black pepper, strawberry, cucumber, lime and lemon of course, but also orange, herbs like rosemary, chili and quinine, rhubarb, celery, melon, raspberry and thyme. You can be insanely creative on Gin & Tonic. Enough talking, let´s have a drink!!!! Here a simple strawberry gin tonic I prepared. I must say it was a pleasure night, preparing the post, making the G&T, photographing it, drawing and painting it and sipping my G&T while listening nice music. Jazz, of course!

Strawberry G&T

SRapallo, Strawberry GT, watercolor, 2017
SRapallo, Strawberry GT, watercolor, 2017

Ingredients

3 strawberries
18 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 12 oz. navy-strength gin
4 oz. tonic
Cinnamon stick

Instructions

Muddle 2 strawberries and ⅛ tsp. freshly ground black pepper in a shaker; pour into an ice-filled goblet. Stir in 1½ oz. navy-strength gin. Top with 4 oz. tonic; garnish with a strawberry and cinnamon stick.
If life give you lemons, make a Gin & Tonic.

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Chamberi Food Market

Mercado de Chamberí

Calle de Alonso Cano, 10, 28010 Madrid

SRapallo, Langostino, watercolor, 2017
SRapallo, Langostino, watercolor, 2017

This food market is in my neighborhood,  half a block from where I live. The market dates back to 1876, but after a thorough renovation it was inaugurated in 1943, then last year they renovated the food court. The Chamberí Municipal Market is not particularly famous like market Boqueria in Barcelona or San Miguel, that I wrote about on my latest post. But even though I consider a privilege having a fresh market  so close by. We totally changed our food shopping routine after moving to this neighborhood. I usually went to a supermarket like once a week for the fresh and daily products and like once a month for major shopping.

But nowadays, my husband goes to that market everyday, serious… every single day. He asks me what I want for lunch and he goes to Chamberi Market, buys super fresh ingredients and prepares it for us. I love cooking too, but… I have to go to the Embassy, where I work. Instead of having tons of products at the fridge, we just have one or two fruits and fresh vegetables that he buys daily. The secret to the soul of a mercado (market)  is its fresh produce. Adopting this lifestyle we eat better and by the seasons and save money.

In this market they also have a food corner with like 8 or 9 small restaurants. They called La Chispería de Chamberí, which with its name honors the “sparks” (the chulapos of the neighborhoods of Maravillas and Chamberí, where forges and smithies abound).

Restaurants:

Lambuzo: Cuisine of the province of Cádiz. El Rincon de Lupe: Castiza cuisine made with products from the market. La Valona: Chalupería, fusion of Mexican and Spanish gastronomy. El Loco Antonelli: The cuisine of national and international port. La Pitita: Grilled meats and the best selection of Iberian. Chambí: Peruvian ‘buns’ and ‘sanguches’ made from coal with machinery imported from Peru (Chinese box and cylinder) Café La Torbellino: In which you can enjoy the desserts of the 6 seats. Brewery El Ocho: Offers fresh Mahou beer from tank.

We haven´t tried them all yet but this market is a good option if you are not in the mood for a car of subway. Just as you buy your groceries for dinner here, the food stalls are doing the same, and with the same ingredients as you, they’re making something your kitchen could only dream of. You can find wide variety of products on this market: meat, poultry, fish, vegetables, fruits, wine and other spirits . You can also find some other European types of food, like German, French and Portuguese.

Source: http://www.mercadodechamberi.es/p/la-chisperia.html

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(Português)

Mercado de Chamberí

Rua Alonso Cano, 10, 28010 Madrid

Este mercado fica no nosso bairro, meia quadra de onde eu moro. Foi construído em 1876 e depois de reformado, foi reinaugurado em 1943, mas recentemente, a praça de alimentação foi renovada. O Mercado Municipal de Chamberí não é tão famoso quanto o Mercado La Boquería, em Barcelona ou o Mercado de São Miguel, que já mencionei em no meu último artigo. Contudo, considero um privilégio ter um mercado com produtos frescos tão perto de casa. Nós mudamos completamente nossa rotina depois que nos mudamos para esse bairro. Eu costumava ir ao supermercado pelo menos uma vez por semana para comprar frutas e verduras e uma vez ao mês para compras maiores.

Mas hoje em dia, meu marido vai ao mercado diariamente. Definimos qual o menu do dia e ele compra tudo absolutamente fresquíssimo no mercado. Eu adoro cozinhar também, mas como tenho meu trabalho na Embaixada, deixo essa tarefa para ele. Ao invés de estocar demasiados produtos na geladeira, compramos frutas frescas e legumes frescos diariamente. A alma de um mercado desse gênero é justamente a frescura dos produtos.  Adotando esse estilo de vida, nos alimentamos melhor, comsumimos produtos da estação e ainda economizamos dinheiro.

Neste mercado eles também tem uma praça de alimentação com uns 8 ou 9 pequenos restaurantes. Chama-se La Chispería de Chamberí, adquiriu esse nome em homenagem às faíscas, onde ferreiros e forjas eram a especialidade dos bairros de  Maravillas e Chamberí. 

Restaurantes: Lambuzo: Cozinha da Província de Cádiz. El Rincon de Lupe: Castiza cozinha feita com produtos do mercado. La Valona: Chalupería, fusão de cozinha Mexicana e gastronomia Espanhola. El Loco Antonelli: Cozinha de porte nacional e internacional. La Pitita: Carne grelhada e grande variedade de Ibéricos. Chambí: Peruano ‘buns’ e ‘sanguches’ elaborados com maquinaria a carvão importada do Peru e Café La Torbellino: Com seis opções de sobremesas. Cervejaria El Ocho: Oferece cerveja Mahou diretamente do tanque.

Ainda não conseguimos experimentar todos eles, mas é sempre uma boa opção quando não se quer sair de carro ou metrô. Assim como compramos nossos produtos frescos neste mercado, os restaurantes usam os mesmos produtos do mercado para produzir iguarias frescas que vc nem pode imaginar. É possível encontrar grande variedade de produtos neste mercado: carne bovina, frango, peixes, vegetais e legumes, frutas, vinhos e outras bebidas. Há também oferta de produtos europeus, como alemães, franceses e portugueses.

Página Oficial: http://www.mercadodechamberi.es/p/la-chisperia.html

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The Market of San Miguel

Mercado de San Miguel

SRapallo, Percebes, watercolor, 2017
SRapallo, Percebes, watercolor, 2017

This is one of the most visited markets in Madrid. Walking distance from Plaza Mayor, in the heart of the city. I love their concept, it’s not a traditional grocery market but a gourmet tapas market where you can get a beer from one vendor and some tapas from the other. Just find a place to sit (if you are lucky enough) and enjoy it! I strongly recommend the oysters and Cava, just to start. The Mercado de San Miguel is one of the best things in Madrid, and the popularity of the market’s food and wine stands and convivial atmosphere has soared to a stratospheric level. The weekends are heaving with happy locals and tourists alike munching on the gourmet goodies (stuffed peppers, oysters and champagne, Galician octopus, Catalan canelones, marinated olives, artisan cheeses, Jamón de Bellota, Chorizo, etc) and buckets of vino de Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Sherry, Cava, Priorat….

And if you find yourself in Madrid, a visit here is a must. Best enjoyed midweek and before dinnertime. If you don’t mind crowds, the weekends are a whole lot of fun. But take care with the pick-pockets … it’s a very touristic place.

Official website: http://www.mercadodesanmiguel.es/en/

 

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(Português)

Este é um dos lugares mais visitados em Madri. Perto da Plaza Mayor, no coração da cidade. Eu gosto do conceito do lugar, não é um mercado tradicional mas um espaço gourmet de tapas, onde vc pode pegar uma cerveja de um vendedor e algumas tapas de outro. Apenas escolha um lugar para se sentar (se vc tiver bastante sorte) e aproveite! Eu recomendo começar saboreando ostras e Cava. O Mercado de São Miguel é um dos melhores lugares de Madri e a popularidade do local é bem alta e tem uma boa atmosfera. Nos fins de semana fica muito movimentado e tem uma ampla variedade de produtos espanhois (pimentos recheados, ostras e champanhe, polvo da Galícia, canelones Catalanes, azeitonas marinadas, queijos artesanais, Presunto de Bellota, Chourizo etc) além de barris de vino da Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Sherry, Cava, Priorat….

Se vc estiver por Madri é certamente um lugar imperdível. Melhor passar por lá nos dias de semana, antes do jantar, para uns drinks. Se vc não se importa com multidão, nos fins de semana, fica muito movimentado. Mas cuidado com os batedores de carteira… É um lugar muito turístico.

Página Oficial: http://www.mercadodesanmiguel.es

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La Ardosa

Bodela de la Ardosa, Madrid

SRapallo BodegaArdosa, watercolor, 2017.
SRapallo BodegaArdosa, watercolor, 2017.

Calle de Colón, 13, Malasaña

One of the first bars we visit when we arrived in Madrid. It´s a old bar with excellent salmorejo (cold tomato soup made with bread, oil, garlic and vinegar) and croquetas or tortilla de patatas (potato and onion omelette). You have to try it!

As a decor I specially love the grotesque  Goya´s drawings hanged all over the walls. Most of the people don´t even notice them. They have two ambient s;  one in front and the other at the back of the bar, you have to pass below the counter top.

A brief history

In 1892 Rafael Fernández Bagena, owner of vineyards in the region of La Ardosa, Toledo, created and founded the chain of Bodegas La Ardosa in Madrid, which would have 36 establishments. Some are still open in the streets Sta. Engracia, 70 , Ponzano, 10 and Abtao, 32.

Gregorio Monje, a butcher by profession, acquired La Ardosa in 1970. In 1979 he began working there with his wife Conchita, who presented the tavern to the most prestigious tortilla competitions, and his sons Rafael and Ángel.  At the death of Gregorio. In 1995, the distributor  was sold and the children continued with the brewery business. Currently, La Ardosa is run by Ángel, assisted by  his wife, Concepción, and by a team that he trained and educated to serve beer with the same dedication and devotion as always.

During the 80’s he specialized in beers, becoming an institution. They worked the English Bass brewery, the German Warsteiner and were pioneers in importing Czech beers like the authentic Czech Budweiser and Pilsner Urquell. Ah, they also have Guinness and Bombardier.
This place is crowded on weekends, well… in fact every night – the Spanish way of life. They are pro…. they drink Monday to Monday.

Continue reading “La Ardosa”

Bluebird´s Nest

Bluebird’s  Nest

SRapallo, Bluebird's Nest
SRapallo, Bluebird’s Nest

I totally forgot to fetch my pencil case at home when I came to work today, as I usually do. The only available pen in my bag was a Montblanc Meisterstuck filled with a turquoise ink, which I also like very much – the pen and the ink.

Today´s prompt is ¨Woody¨… well, blue is not a woody hue, so the solution was to make a Bluebird´s nest…. so I could work both ways, the little blue sketch on pencil and later on, at home, paint the nest with watercolor. Well you have to play with what you have in hands, right?

Lucky me… even the eggs were blue!! Thanks Bluebird…

Playlist: Bluebird, Paul McCartney from the album Band on the Run

 

 

 

 

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(Portuguese)

Hoje esqueci totalmente de colocar na minha bolsa o meu estojo de lápis como sempre o faço. A única caneta que eu tinha era uma caneta tinteiro, a  Montblanc Meisterstuck , carregada com tinta turquesa, que eu gosto muito, tanto da caneta quanto da cor.

O tema de hoje é ¨amadeirado¨, bem, como azul não é obviamente um tom de cor amadeirado, a solução encontrada foi fazer um esboço de um ninho de passarinho azul, o Azulão, assim eu poderia cumprir com o requisito amadeirado mesmo usando uma cor completamente distinta. Pois é, foi um pouco de esperteza minha, mas acho que a gente tem que usar o que se tem nas mãos, certo ?

Para sorte minha, os ovos do Azulão são, obviamente, azuis….Beleza!

Trilha Sonora: Bluebird, Paul McCartney do álbum Band on the Run

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