A Little bit of Madrid

I’ll be leaving this great city pretty soon. I lived here for 4 years and the experience was more satisfactory than I could imagine or expected. The Spanish way of living is vibrant, the city offers a great amount of bars, tapas, museums, culture, theater, dance, seasonal festivities and more…

Each neighbourhood: Austrias, Salamanca, Barrio de las Letras, Chamberi, Castellana, Chueca, Sol, Gran Via, Retiro, Malasaña y Paseo del Arte. Some of the best museums in Europe, El Prado, Reina Sofia e Thyssen-Bornemisza. Others small museums but also great art like Museo Sorolla y Ermita de San Antonio de La Florida, with Goya frescos.

I posted many blogs about the city and their way of life. Spanish people like to live outside every day of the week and the whole year. I never knew a city vibrant like this and they don’t need a beach of seaside living to show they happiness and enjoy the city.

SRapallo, A Little bit of Madrid, watercolor, set/2018.
SRapallo, A Little bit of Madrid, watercolor, set/2018.

I’ll be packing my house and pretty soon and Rio de Janeiro is waiting for me,  I intent to continue this blog talking about the Carioca’s way of life, whitch is not much different from the Spanish and exploring the city with a personal approach. At least I have a good starting point there because my  husband is a real Carioca and I have a lot of things to learn about the Cidade Maravilhosa!

susanarapallo.com

(Português)

 

Um pouco de Madri

 

Estarei deixando esta grande cidade dentro em breve. Vivi aqui por 4 anos e a experiência foi mais satisfatória do que eu imaginava. O mode de vida espanhol é vibrante, a cidade oferece muitos atrativos como bares, tapas, museus, cultura, teatros, dança e festas típicas e muito mais…..

Cada bairro: Austrias, Salamanca, Barrio de las Letras, Chamberi, Castellana, Chueca, Sol, Gran Via, Retiro, Malasaña e Paseo del Arte. Alguns dos melhores museus da Europa, o Prado, Reina Sofia e Thyssen-Bornemisza. Outros museus menores em tamanho mas grande em arte, como o  Museu Sorolla e Ermita de San Antonio de La Florida, com afrescos de Goya.

Postei muitos blogs sobre a cidade e seu estilo de vida. Os espanhóis gostam de viver sua cidade, seus bares durante a semana e durante o ano inteiro. Eu nunca vi uma cidade, que não fosse costeira, que tivesse essa vibração, essa alegria de viver e aproveitar a cidade.

Estarei empacotando a casa logo mais e o Rio de Janeiro espera por mim,  pretendo continuar esse blog, explorando o modo de vida do Carioca, que não é muito diferente do espanhol e explorando a cidade do meu ponto de vista pessoal. Pelo menos tenho um bom ponto de partida, meu marido, que é Carioca da gema e tenho muito o que aprender sobre a Cidade Maravilhosa!

susanarapallo.com

Madrid : Ni Subo Ni Bajo

Madrid: Ni Subo Ni Bajo (Taperia Gallega, Chamberi)

Another excelent food place locate in my neibourhood.

From Galicia with love…A cozy place with simple design and terrace. Yesterday I had lunch there and made a quick sketch from one of the servers. Ni Subo Ni Bajo is a Galician restaurant with delicious food and fresh products from the sea (chopitos, calamares,etc..), also rabo de toro, chuleton gallego, morcilla de arroz, croquetas de jamón (that I specially DON’T recommend, croquetas for Brazilian people is a totally different thing, they look like the same, but believe me, they are not) but they have a very good wine from Galicia, and beer, of course.

Now they have tables outside where you can enjoy this beautiful weather and ambiance.

Address: Calle de García de Paredes, 35, 28010 Madrid

As I always say I love Madrid!!!!

cropped-adh_5988-e14650660978762.png

(Português)

Madri: Ni Subo Ni Bajo (Taperia Gallega, Chamberi)

Outro excelente lugar de alimentação localizado na minha vizinhança.

Da Galícia com amor..Um lugar muito simpático com um design simples e terraço. Ontem  fui almoçar por lá e aproveitei para fazer um croqui rápido de um dos atendentes. Ni subo Ni Bajo é um resturante Galício com comida deliciosa e produtos frescos do mar (chopitos, lulas, mexilhões.etc..), rabada, chuleton (carne) galego, morcilha de arroz, croquetes de presunto (que eu especialmente NÃo recomendo, para nós brasileiros, croquetes são  complemente diferente dos espanhóis) mas eles têm vinhos galegos de boa qualidade e, cerveja, claro.

Agora que estamos em clima de verão chegando, pode-se aproveitar o clima maravilhoso e ambiente gostoso nas mesas da calçada.

Endereço: Calle de García de Paredes, 35, 28010 Madrid

Acomo sempre digo, Adoro Madri!!!!!!

cropped-adh_5988-e14650660978762.png

SUSANARAPALLO.COM

Madrid : San Isidro’s Party (Fiestas de San Isidro)

Madrid: May 11-15th, 2018

We’ve been there last year. In May, this year will be from 11 to 15th, Madrid holds the Feast of Saint Isidore the Farmer, the patron saint of the city and of all farmers.

Saint Isidore is said to have worked over a hundred miracles. His steps can be traced across part of the city in one of our guided tours.

His contemporaries claimed that Saint Isidore had a special talent for finding fresh water. In fact, the feast in his hon

our focuses on water. The festival takes place in Pradera de San Isidro Park and the adjacent streets, where chulapas, chulapos and goyescas (people dressed in traditional Madrid costumes) drink ‘the saint’s water’ pouring from a spring next to the Shrine of San Isidro.

Weather permitting, people eat doughnuts and drink lemonade at Pradera de San Isidro. In Madrid, lemonade is made with wine, lemon, sugar and diced fruit (usually apple). Doughnuts can be tontas (with egg), listas (with egg and powdered sugar glaze), Santa Clara (with a layer of white meringue) or French (with almonds).

As I always say I love Madrid!!!!

cropped-adh_5988-e14650660978762.png

(Português)

Madri: 11-15 de Maio, 2018

Estivemos na Feira de San Isidro no ano passado. Este ano, em Maio, de 11 a 15, Madri celebra a Festa de São Isidoro o Camponês, o santo patrono da cidade de Madri e de todos os trabalhadores rurais.

SRapallo, Xale, watercolor Madrid, 2018.
SRapallo, Xale, watercolor Madrid, 2018.

Dizem que São Isidoro realizou inúmeros milagres. Seus passos podem ser retraçados pela cidade acompanhados por guias turísticos.

Seus comtemporâneos clamam que São Isidoro tinha um talento especial para encontrar água fresca. De fato, a festa em sua homenagem foca a água como elemento principal. O festival acontece na Pradera de San Isidro e nas ruas adjacentes, onde chulapas, chulapos e goyescas (madrilenhos vestidos em trajes típicos) bebem a “água santa”numa fonte perto da Capela de São Isidoro.

Se o clima permitir, as pessoas fazem picnics; comem doces e bebem  limonada na Pradera de São Isidoro. Aqui, limonada é feita com vinho, limão, açúcar e pedaços de frutas (geralmente maças). O doce típico chama-se tontas, uma espécie de doughnuts (com ovos), listas (com ovo e glacê açucarado), Santa Clara (merengue) or Francês (com amêndoas).

Acomo sempre digo, Adoro Madri!!!!!!

cropped-adh_5988-e14650660978762.png

SUSANARAPALLO.COM

Madrid “1.8”: Plaza Mayor

MADRID 1.8

In February crossing Plaza Mayor I was surprised to see something colorful and beautiful floating over the Plaza Mayor. I later discover it was an installation of Janet Echelman, an American artist depicting the earthquake and tsunami that hit Japan in 2011. It symbolizes the fact that we are all connected between the Earth’s natural systems. She was one of the artists invited to celebrate the 400 years of the Plaza Mayor. Studio Echelman generated the 3D shape of the sculpture using groups of tsunami wave height data throughout the Pacific Ocean. The resulting vibrations momentarily accelerated the Earth’s rotation, shortening the day’s length by 1.8 microseconds, which became the catalyst concept of sculpture “1.8”.

SRapallo foto Madrid 1.8 dia.
SRapallo photo Madrid 1.8 daylight.

The Plaza Mayor’s northern wall stretches along Calle Mayor, the street that connects Puerta del Sol west towards Calle Bailén and, consequently, the Royal Palace, Almudena Cathedral and Puente de Segovia. Follow any of the alleys south off this grand square and you’ll discover the Old City.

The most typical Madrid attractions are concentrated around the Plaza Mayor in the “Austrias” neighborhood. Discover Madrid food at classic restaurants like El Botín or Casa Lucío, see flamenco at any number of nearby venues, or get a glass of Vermouth, Cava or wine on the ever more hip Cava Baja street where locales old and new bustle all nights of the week. Los Austrias is a great neighborhood to amble along old winding streets and lose yourself in historic Madrid. I love Madrid!!!!

cropped-adh_5988-e14650660978762.png

(Português)

MADRI 1.8

Este ano, em fevereiro, deparei-me com algo inesperado ao cruzar pela Praza Mayor. Uma coisa linda e colorida flutuando no céu  ao centro da Plaza Mayor. Depois vim a saber que tratava-se de uma escultura flutuante da artista plástica norte-americana Janet Echelman –  uma das comemorações dos 400 anos da Plaza Mayor em 2017, obra instalada foi intitulada Madri 1.8. O conceito da obra provêm de conjuntos de datos científicos do terremoto e do tsunami que atingiram o Japão em 2011. Simboliza o fato de que todos estamos conectados entre os sistemas naturais da Terra. Studio Echelman gerou as forma em 3D da escultura utilizando grupos de datos da altura das ondas do tsunami ao longo de todo o oceano Pacífico. As vibracões resultantes aceleraram momentâneamente a rotação da Terra, encurtando a longitude do dia em 1.8 microsegundos, o que se converteu no conceito ca

SRapallo foto Madrid 1.8 noite.
SRapallo foto Madrid 1.8 noite.

talizador da escultura “1.8”.

A Plaza Mayor acompanha as antigas mulharas nortes acompanhando a Calle Mayor, que são as ruas que conectam a Puerta del Sol a oeste à Calle Bailén e, consequentemente, ao Palácio Real, Catedral de Almudena e Puente de Segovia. Siga pelas ruas ao sul da praça para descobrir a cidade antiga.

Ao rededor da Praça Maior concentra-se o bairro “Áustrias”, aonde se localizam os restaurantes mais antigos de Madri, como El Botín ou Casa Lucío, danças flamengas e um grande número de bares onde servem o Vermouth local, Cavas e vinhos. Vale a pena um passeio pela Cava Baja, rua onde convivem os bares antigos com os bares mais modernos. Há muito movimento por ali todos os dias da semana, o lugar é “non stop”.  É um bairro tradicional e convida ao visitante a perder-se pelas ruas históricas de Madri. Adoro Madri!!!!!!

cropped-adh_5988-e14650660978762.png

SUSANARAPALLO.COM

Eremita de San Frutos (Saint Fructus) – Sepúlveda/Segovia

There are only reminiscing of the church itself. Saint Fructus (Spanish: San Fruitos, Frutos, Fructos) was a Castilian hermit of the eighth century venerated as a saint. Christian tradition states that he had two siblings, named Valentine (Valentín) and Engratia (Engracia). They all lived as hermits on a mountain in the region of Sepúlveda. Engratia should not be confused with the 4th-century Portuguese martyr of the same name.

Born in the 7th century to a noble family of Segovia, Fructus and his two siblings sold their family possessions after their parents’ death and gave the earnings to poor. Wishing to escape from the city and the turbulent times, they established themselves on the rocky terrain near the village of Sepulveda now known as the Hoces del Duratón, where they lived apart from one another in caves that ensured them complete solitude.

Tradition holds that Valentine and Engratia were later martyred around 715 by advancing Moorish forces, and that Fructus died of natural causes in the same year at the age of 73.

Legends

A legend states that some locals, wishing to join Fructus in his retreat to his death, traveled there, only to be pursued by Moorish forces to the very door of Fructus’ hermitage. Fructus attempted to convert the Muslim soldiers, but without success. The legend goes on to state that Fructus drew a line across the earth, asking that the Moorish forces not cross it. When they ignored him and attempted to cross, the earth miraculously opened up to swallow them up, at a crack in the rock now called La Cuchillada. From that point on, the Moors did not bother Fructus.[2]

Veneration

They are venerated as the patron saints of Segovia, where their relics are enshrined and are recognized as saints of the Orthodox Patriarchate of Rome.

Fructus, Valentine and Engratia are commemorated on 25 October by Western Rite Orthodox communities, and in the Roman Catholic Church.

Their relics were conserved in the hermitage of San Frutos from the 8th century to the 11th, when they were translated to Segovia Cathedral. The area of Fructus’ hermitage suffered various political and military vicissitudes; this area was conquered by Fernán González before being annexed by Al-Mansur Ibn Abi Aamir in 984. It fell to Christian control once again in 1011 through the efforts of Sancho García of Castile, and in 1076 was repopulated by Alfonso VI of Castile. By the 1070s, the Benedictines had established a church in honor of Saint Fructus in the area, as well as an adjoining monastery.

On the night of October 24 is celebrated the procession in honor of Fructus known as the Paso de la Hoja (“Turn of the Page”). A sculpture of Fructus rests in a niche in this cathedral. This sculpture has Fructus holding a book; according to local legend, it is the “Book of Life”: when Fructus turns to the last page, the world will end.

Fructus’ feast day is celebrated with music and contests, and devotees also celebrate his feast day at the park of Hoces del Río Duratón, where they accompany a statue of Fructus.

SUSANARAPALLO.COM

Santiago de Compostela (El camino) or The Way of St. James

This is my first blog in 2018. My last one was in June 2017. I had my personal journey fighting against cervical cancer last year and I had no energy whatsoever to post anything. Well, I’m still here! But after surgery in July and the beginning of chemo at the end of August, I’ve manage to travel to  Galícia and visited the city of Santiago de Compostela and the surroudings cities, Muxia, Ézaro, Carnota, Corcubión, Muros, Noia and also Finisterre, the last post of pilgrimage. I confess I didn’t do the whole “camino” but, you know, due to the circumstance at that particular moment of my life, I was happy just being there and somehow feeling blessed. Spain is a wonderful country to travel, full of history, wonderful food and spectacular wineries. It’s an energetic country to feel alive and enjoy living!! Something like “La Fiesta” therapy.

I love traveling by car. From Madrid to Santiago de Compostela is like 5.2 hours driving and the sightseeing change completely from the arid weather in Castilla La Mancha to a humid and ultra green meadows in Galicia. And I love eating fresh products from local producers. I specially recommend “O Graneiro de Amelia” (www.ograneirodeamelia.gal) where you can buy grains, species, dry nuts, teas and herbs. The colors, the smell of species and honey…. indescribable!!! And don’t forget to eat the Almond Tart, also a local food tradition.

There are eight main Camino de Santiago pilgrimage routes in Spain:

Camino Frances – the busiest route.
Via de la Plata – the longest Camino.
Camino del Norte – along the sea.
Camino Ingles The English Road – the shortest Camino.
Camino Portugues, (finishes in Santiago de Compostela but starts in Portugal).
Camino Primitivo. the original one.

Even if you don’t do the Camino, visit the city, the Cathedral and also Santa Maria la Real de Sar, a medieval church from XVI Century. From the cathedral’s balcony you can contemplate the beauty of the roofs and the city’s skyline. Unfortunately the frontal cathedral’s facade (The Obradoiro) is being restored and only will be re-opening on 2023. Well, I’ll have to come back somehow!

The Way of St. James (El Camino) was one of the most important Christian pilgrimages during the Middle Ages. Legend holds that St. James’s remains were carried by boat from Jerusalem to northern Spain, where he was buried in what is now the city of Santiago de Compostela. (The name Santiago is the local Galician evolution of Vulgar Latin Sancti Iacobi, “Saint James”.)

The Way can take one of dozens of pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela. Traditionally, as with most pilgrimages, the Way of Saint James began at one’s home and ended at the pilgrimage site. However, a few of the routes are considered main ones. During the Middle Ages, the route was highly travelled. However, the Black Death, the Protestant Reformation, and political unrest in 16th century Europe led to its decline. By the 1980s, only a few pilgrims per year arrived in Santiago.

Most pilgrims carry a document called the credencial, purchased for a few euros from a Spanish tourist agency, a church or parish house on the route, a refugio, their church back home, or outside of Spain through the national St. James organization of that country. The credencial is a pass which gives access to inexpensive, sometimes free, overnight accommodation in refugios along the trail. Also known as the “pilgrim’s passport”, the credencial is stamped with the official St. James stamp of each town or refugio at which the pilgrim has stayed. It provides pilgrims with a record of where they ate or slept, and serves as proof to the Pilgrim’s Office in Santiago that the journey was accomplished according to an official route, and thus that the pilgrim qualifies to receive a compostela (certificate of completion of the pilgrimage).

The “Way of St James” is marked by a scallop shell, a symbol of humility that also served practical purposes for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. The shell was the right size for gathering water to drink or for eating out of as a makeshift bowl. The pilgrim’s staff is a walking stick used by pilgrims to the shrine of Santiago de Compostela.

Most often the stamp can be obtained in the refugio, cathedral, or local church. If the church is closed, the town hall or office of tourism can provide a stamp, as can nearby youth hostels or private St. James addresses. Many of the small restaurants and cafes along the Camino also provide stamps. Outside Spain, the stamp can be associated with something of a ceremony, where the stamper and the pilgrim can share information. As the pilgrimage approaches Santiago, many of the stamps in small towns are self-service due to the greater number of pilgrims, while in the larger towns there are several options to obtain the stamp.

Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santiago_de_Compostela

SUSANARAPALLO.COM